585 or 750 Gold: I answer the question I am most frequently asked

The question comes up almost daily. Sometimes via message, sometimes from friends who know I'm involved with jewelry: 585 or 750 – which should I choose? 14 karat or 18 karat? What's "better"?

The short answer: For most people, in most situations, 585 gold is the right choice. But that would be a meager blog post, so I'll also explain why – and when the answer is different.

What the numbers mean

Pure gold – meaning 999 fine gold – is actually not suitable for jewelry. It's too soft, too susceptible to scratches, too pliable. That's why gold for jewelry is always alloyed with other metals: copper, silver, palladium, sometimes zinc or nickel.

585 means: 585 parts out of 1000 are pure gold. The rest is alloy. That's 14 karat. 750 means: 750 parts out of 1000 are gold. That's 18 karat.

More gold means: softer, more expensive, richer color. Less gold means: harder, cheaper, slightly more muted in tone – but still unmistakably gold.

Why 585 gold is better for everyday wear

The most important reason is hardness. A 585 gold ring will withstand everyday life better than a 750 one. Scratches will occur, but less quickly. If you wear a ring that comes into contact with all sorts of things daily – countertop, bag, desk – then the 585 will thank you with greater durability.

Then there's the price. For comparable pieces, 750 gold is significantly more expensive. Not just a little – but often 30 to 50 percent more, depending on the weight. This is because it contains more fine gold, and fine gold currently costs around 90 euros per gram.

For wedding rings, for everyday necklaces, for stud earrings you wear daily: 585 gold is the sensible choice. It's not a compromise, it's not "the cheaper version" – it's the material optimized for daily use.

When 750 gold is the better choice

Nevertheless, there are situations where I recommend 750. Firstly: diamond and gemstone settings. When a valuable stone is set in 750 white gold, it looks different than in 585 – the diamond appears larger, more radiant, the setting more elegant. This is not imagination, it's optics.

Secondly: If you know you'll never wear the piece daily, but for special occasions. A brooch, an evening bracelet, a ring for weddings and birthdays. With infrequent wear, the hardness advantage of 585 disappears – and you benefit from the richer gold tone of 750.

Thirdly: If it is to become an heirloom. 750 gold has a higher material value. If you know that this piece will be passed down in twenty years, investing in a higher gold content is one that pays off in the long run.

The question of color

A difference often underestimated: The gold color varies. 750 yellow gold has a richer, warmer yellow. 585 yellow gold is brighter, slightly cooler in tone. The difference isn't huge, but if you hold one piece next to the other, you'll see it.

With white gold, this is even more relevant. Both – 585 and 750 white gold – need rhodium plating to appear pure white, because natural white gold without coating looks yellowish-gray. But 750 white gold needs this coating re-done less often because it contains more palladium, which brightens the natural color.

What I personally wear

My everyday necklace is made of 585 yellow gold. I wear it daily, sometimes I sleep with it, I wear it during sports. After years, it still looks the same as on the first day – a few fine signs of wear that I consider patina and not damage.

The ring I wear for occasions I have in 750 yellow gold. The color is a bit more saturated, and for the rare moments it's out, that fits better.

My honest recommendation: If you know you want to wear the piece daily, choose 585. If you're buying it as a special piece that won't be used daily, 750 is the more beautiful investment.

You can find both qualities at Corelune – with clear indication of fineness and weight for each piece, so you know exactly what you're buying.