Buying a gold chain: What no one told me – and what I'm telling you now

If you're looking to buy a real gold chain for the first time, you're faced with a question that no one really answers well. Not the jewelers, who have an interest in selling you the most expensive item. Not the price comparison sites, which simply pile up affiliate links. And certainly not the big fashion brands, which sell gold-plated silver under the name "gold chain" and hope you won't notice the difference.

I've navigated this thicket myself, and here I'm writing down what I've learned along the way. No detours.

First things first: What exactly is a real gold chain?

A real gold chain is made of solid gold – not gold-plated, not "gold-colored," not "18K Gold Plated." The metal is gold through and through, and this is confirmed by a hallmark on the chain or clasp. 585 means 14 karat, which is 58.5 percent pure gold. 750 means 18 karat, 75 percent. These numbers are legally required in Germany.

If you don't find this hallmark – for example, because the seller says it "fell off" or "isn't required for this size" – then don't buy it. Period.

Anything else that looks like gold isn't. That sounds harsh, but it saves you from spending real money on something that will be forgotten in two years.

The Chain Weight: The factor hardly anyone talks about

When buying a gold chain, many people primarily look at length and width. But what really matters is the weight in grams – and that's also the most honest price indicator.

A 585 gold chain of 45 centimeters and 1.5 millimeters width typically weighs between 3 and 5 grams. If you take the current gold price – approximately 90 Euros per gram of fine gold in 2026 – and multiply it by the fineness, you get the pure material value. For 4 grams of 585 gold: about 210 Euros material value alone.

A reputable dealer will tell you this weight. If he doesn't, ask. If he hesitates or equivocates, go somewhere else.

Why this is important: There are chains that look large and impressive but only weigh 1.5 grams because they are hollow. Hollow chains are not bad per se – they are lighter to wear and cheaper. But you need to know what you're buying. A hollow chain is more susceptible to deformation and has less material value. For a chain you wear every day, solid is usually the better decision.

What chain length you really need

Here's a simple rule that's missing from most guides: Buy longer than you think.

Most people buying a gold chain for the first time order 42 or 45 centimeters and then find that the chain sits too snugly around their neck. Especially if you don't have a long neck, or if you want to layer the chain.

45 centimeters is the classic women's standard – the chain rests on the collarbone. 50 centimeters sits below that, ideal if you want to wear a pendant. 55 centimeters allows more leeway and looks particularly good with a V-neck. For men, 50 to 55 centimeters is the standard.

I say this because I know the most common return we get: the chain is really beautiful, but too short. It's better to choose one size larger – you can always have it shortened by a goldsmith.

The chain pattern: What wears how

Anchor chain, Venetian chain, curb chain – the terms are bandied about, but what do they mean in everyday life?

The anchor chain is the workhorse. Round links, alternately arranged. It lies flat on the skin, is relatively robust, and looks classic. If you want an everyday chain that you simply leave on, the anchor chain is your safest bet.

The Venetian chain is finer. Square, interlocking links create an almost silky band. It shines beautifully but is more delicate than the anchor chain. Ideal for less strenuous occasions or as a delicate addition to a pendant.

The curb chain is solid and prominent. Flat, overlapping links that lie closely together. It feels heavy and looks beautiful on the chest. The classic choice for men, and for women as a statement chain. Usually wider than 3 millimeters to make an impact.

My personal tip: If you're unsure, take an anchor chain in 1.5 millimeters. You can combine it with almost anything, it sits comfortably, and it holds up even if you're not entirely gentle with it.

Online purchase or jeweler?

Of course, I'm not neutral – we are an online jeweler. But I'll still try to be fair.

The advantage of a brick-and-mortar jeweler is the direct experience: you see the chain, hold it in your hand, and can ask questions. For a first chain or for a very emotional purchase – like an engagement ring – that's valuable.

The disadvantage is the price. A jeweler in a good location pays several thousand Euros in rent per month. The sales staff costs money. The display assortment costs money. All of this is included in the price of your chain – and can easily be 30 to 40 percent higher than what you would pay online, for the identical gold content.

Online you buy cheaper, but you need trust. You get that through: a complete impressum, weight and fineness specifications for every piece, genuine customer reviews with photos, and a clear return policy. A 30-day return policy is practically like an extended try-on period.

At Corelune, we provide the fineness, weight, length, and width for every chain. Not because it's mandatory – which it is – but because we wanted it ourselves when we were looking for our first piece of jewelry.