Buying Pearl Jewelry: Identifying Real Pearls & Proper Care

Pearls are one of the oldest and most romantic jewelry materials in the world. Long before diamonds became a symbol of luxury, pearls were the most coveted jewelry in the world – worn by queens, empresses, and ladies of the highest society. Today, pearls are experiencing a modern revival, combining classic elegance with contemporary style.

How Pearls Are Formed: Natural vs. Cultured

Natural Pearls

A genuine wild pearl forms when a foreign object enters a mollusk, and the mollusk coats it with fine layers of nacre over years. Natural pearls are extremely rare and accordingly expensive. A classic natural pearl necklace can fetch six-figure sums at auctions today.

Cultured Pearls

99.9% of the global pearl market consists of cultured pearls. In this process, a nucleus (a bead made of shell or tissue) is artificially inserted into the mollusk – nature does the rest. Cultured pearls have the same chemical composition as natural pearls.

Overview of the Most Important Pearl Types

Akoya Pearls (Japan/China)

The classic cultured pearls. Round, small diameter (5–10 mm), brilliant white luster. Ideal for the traditional pearl necklace. Japanese Akoya pearls are considered to be of the highest quality.

South Sea Pearls (Australia, Philippines, Indonesia)

The largest saltwater pearls (10–20 mm). Warm, creamy white or golden hue. Luxurious, heavy luster. Among the most valuable pearls in the world.

Tahitian Pearls (French Polynesia)

Dark pearls in anthracite, black, greenish shimmer, and peacock blue. Large diameters (10–18 mm). The rare "Peacock" color (peacock-green-pink) is particularly sought after.

Freshwater Pearls (China)

An affordable entry into the world of pearls. Diverse shapes and colors. Quality has improved tremendously in recent years – high-quality freshwater pearls are almost indistinguishable from Akoya pearls.

Quality Criteria: What Makes a Good Pearl

When buying pearl jewelry, experts pay attention to the following factors:

1. Luster Luster is the most important quality characteristic. A high-quality pearl reflects light deeply from within like a mirror – you can see reflections of the surroundings in it. Dull, flat-looking pearls are inferior.

2. Surface Fewer imperfections mean more value. Small irregularities are natural and acceptable – heavily grooved or coarsely textured surfaces diminish the value.

3. Shape Round pearls are the rarest and most expensive. Baroque pearls (irregular shape) are cheaper and particularly trendy in 2025 – their organic appearance looks modern and lively.

4. Size Larger pearls are rarer. For the same quality, the price increases disproportionately with size.

5. Color Depending on the pearl type and personal taste. Special colors (gold tone for South Sea pearls, peacock color for Tahitian) are particularly valuable.

Identifying Real Pearls: The Simple Tooth Test

Gently rub the pearl against your front tooth. Real pearls (both natural and cultured) will feel slightly sandy or gritty – due to the natural aragonite crystal structure of the nacre. Plastic imitations, on the other hand, are smooth and slippery.

Proper Care for Pearl Jewelry

Pearls are organic and significantly more delicate than other gemstones:

• Wipe after wearing: A soft, slightly damp cloth removes skin oils and perspiration that can damage nacre surfaces.
• Put on last: Perfume, hairspray, and cosmetics are pearls' worst enemies.
• Store flat: Pearl necklaces should be stored flat – hanging can stretch the thread.
• Have restrung annually: High-quality pearl necklaces should be restrung by a jeweler every year to prevent thread breakage.
• Do not wear in water: Neither seawater nor chlorinated water, neither shower nor swimming pool.

Pearl Jewelry with a Modern Look

Pearls are no longer just "grandma's jewelry." In 2025, fashion influencers and designers are combining pearls in new ways:

• Baroque pearl earrings with yellow gold
• Layered irregular pearls
• Pearl hairpins and barrettes
• Pearl chokers with structured elements
• Mix of white and dark Tahitian pearls

FAQ: Buying Pearl Jewelry

What is the difference between Akoya and South Sea pearls? Akoya pearls are smaller (5–10 mm), whiter, and have a cooler, more brilliant luster. South Sea pearls are larger (10–20 mm), with a warmer, creamy luster, and significantly more expensive.

How much does a real pearl necklace cost? From approx. €300 (freshwater, basic quality) to €2,000–10,000 (Akoya, premium quality) up to €20,000 and more (South Sea pearls, Tahitian).

How long do pearls last? With proper care and regular restringing of the thread, pearls can last for generations. Historic pearl necklaces from the 19th century are still in perfect condition today.

Can pearl jewelry be cleaned with ultrasound? No! Ultrasound and steam cleaners are absolutely unsuitable for pearls and will destroy their surface.