How to spot real gold jewelry: What I know and what you should know

6 Min. Lesezeit
Wie erkenne ich echten Goldschmuck? Was ich weiß und was du wissen solltest
Kurz gesagt: How can you tell if gold jewellery is real? The fineness mark is the only reliable indicator. What the stamps mean, where they are located, and what you should pay particular attention to online.

In short: Briefly on the topic: How do I recognize real gold jewelry? What I know and what you should know. There is a justified skepticism that accompanies many people when buying jewelry, especially online. The question behind it is fair: How do I know that what I am buying is really what I am buying? Craftsmanship details say more about durability than the price tag.

Status: September 2026. By Phil Oberlaender, Corelune Jewellery, Düsseldorf.

How do I recognize real gold? And what do I do if someone wants to sell me gold-plated brass as 585 gold?

These questions deserve clear answers. Here they are.

The hallmark: The only reliable sign of authenticity

Material note: Corelune carries fashion jewelry made of stainless steel with a gold or silver coating, not precious metals with a hallmark of fineness. The information on gold and silver alloys in this article is for classification purposes, not as a description of our product range. Prices are between €12.95 and €59.95. Free shipping from €59, 14-day return policy.

In Germany, and throughout the EU, real precious metal must be marked with a hallmark of fineness. This stamp is embossed directly into the metal, not printed on the packaging or listed on an enclosed certificate. It is on the piece of jewelry itself.

The most important hallmarks: 585 for 14-karat gold (58.5 percent pure gold), 750 for 18-karat gold, 333 for 8-karat gold, 925 for sterling silver. These hallmarks are legally defined and are monitored by state-recognized testing authorities.

What is not a real gold hallmark: "18K Gold Plated", "Gold Filled", "Gold-colored", "18KGP". All of this means gold-plated, i.e., a non-precious metal core with a gold surface. That is legal, but it is not real gold.

View the selection at Corelune

Where the hallmark is located, and what to do if it is missing

For necklaces and bracelets, you will usually find the hallmark on the lobster clasp or the locking link. For rings, on the inside of the band. For earrings, on the post or the hook part. For some very delicate pieces, the stamp can be so small that it is barely visible to the naked eye; a magnifying glass helps.

If a dealer says the stamp is "too small" or "not required for this size" or "has worn off," do not buy. These are not excuses that are necessary for genuine goods. Real gold jewelry has a hallmark.

The weight test: What gold reveals

Gold is unusually heavy. The density of pure gold is 19.3 grams per cubic centimeter, which is more than twice as heavy as steel. 585 gold, with its alloying metals, is also significantly heavier than brass or copper.

A practical test: If a necklace is visually large and impressive but feels surprisingly light in the hand, that is a warning sign. Either it is hollow, which is legitimate but should be stated, or it is not real precious metal. Real gold jewelry has a characteristic weight.

What applies specifically to online shopping

Buying online has an advantage that many do not use: A reputable online jeweler must be more transparent than a brick-and-mortar one. They cannot let you hold the piece, nor can they stage it with lighting. So they have to write: material specification, weight in grams, metal alloy, stone quality if applicable.

If this information is missing, it is a clear sign. A merchant who sells real gold has no reason to hide the material specification. A merchant who hides it does so because the material specification is not a selling point because it is not present.

Checklist for online purchases: Fineness hallmark stated, weight in grams stated, full legal notice with a real address, at least 14 days right of return, real customer reviews with photos, secure payment methods (PayPal, credit card).

What you can do if you are unsure

Any goldsmith can check the authenticity of jewelry. A quick visual inspection and, if necessary, an acid test or an X-ray fluorescence device (which larger goldsmiths have) will provide certainty within minutes. This usually costs nothing or a small fee.

If you have bought online and are unsure: Bring the piece to a local goldsmith before the return period expires. A thirty-day return policy is worthless if you don't use it.

At Corelune, the transparency I describe here is standard: hallmark on every piece, weight in grams for every chain, full legal notice, 30-day return policy. Not because I have to write that, but because I know that is what I wanted as a buyer before I started selling jewelry myself.

Fittingly: Copper and brass in jewelry: What you should know.

View necklaces from Corelune

Which necklace length sits where?

Neckline Suitable length What to avoid
Round neck 42 to 45 cm Very long chains disappear into the fabric
V-neck 45 to 50 cm Short chains compete with the edge
Turtleneck 60 cm and longer Short chains lie on top of the fabric
Open shirt 40 to 45 cm Chains that are too long slip under the collar

Fittingly: How I care for my gold jewelry, and what I did wrong for years.

Frequently asked questions

45 or 50 cm, which fits better?

45 cm is the standard answer because the chain lies on the collarbone for almost everyone and fits most necklines. You can get more precise with a measuring tape and two centimeters of leeway.

What do I have to consider when wearing chains layered?

Yes, if the lengths are far enough apart. Five centimeters is the practical lower limit.

Lobster clasp is sticking, is the chain broken?

Typical causes are residues of cream and skin oils in the spring. Warm soapy water and a soft brush usually dissolve this within a minute.

What distinguishes fashion jewelry from real jewelry?

Real jewelry consists of solid precious metals with a hallmark and therefore has material value. Fashion jewelry made of coated stainless steel has no resale value, but is waterproof, color-stable, and significantly cheaper. The difference lies in the purpose, not in the quality of the craftsmanship.

It gets concrete with these pieces: Stainless steel circle necklace and Stainless steel heart pendant necklace. You can find more necklaces in the category Necklaces for everyday wear.

About the author

Phil Oberlaender runs Corelune Jewellery in Düsseldorf and has been working with stainless steel jewelry daily since 2024: quality control, complaints, everyday wear tests. The information in this article comes from his own product range and from customer feedback. Where Corelune does not offer something, it is stated here as such.

Which categories fit this topic?

Concretely, this looks like this:

Volume discount: 20% for two items, 25% for three, 30% for four, 35% for five. Shipping is included over 59 euros. Two items in the same metal color can be combined freely.

View gold jewelry for women at Corelune

At Corelune applies: Free shipping from €59, 14-day return policy, shipping from the Netherlands.

→ View gold jewelry for women at Corelune

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