How to spot real gold jewelry: What I know and what you should know
There's a legitimate skepticism many people have when buying jewelry – especially online. The underlying question is fair: How do I know that what I'm buying is really what I'm buying? How do I recognize real gold? And what do I do if someone tries to sell me gold-plated brass as 585 gold?
These questions deserve clear answers. Here they are.
The Hallmark: The Only Reliable Mark of Authenticity
In Germany, and throughout the EU, genuine precious metal must be marked with a fineness hallmark. This stamp is pressed directly into the metal, not printed on the packaging or listed on an accompanying certificate. It is on the piece of jewelry itself.
The most important hallmarks: 585 for 14-karat gold (58.5 percent pure gold), 750 for 18-karat gold, 333 for 8-karat gold, 925 for sterling silver. These hallmarks are legally defined and controlled by state-recognized testing bodies.
What is not a real gold hallmark: "18K Gold Plated," "Gold Filled," "Gold-colored," "18KGP." All of these mean gold-plated – i.e., a non-precious metal core with a gold surface. This is legal, but it is not real gold.
Where the Hallmark is Located – and What to Do if it's Missing
For necklaces and bracelets, you'll usually find the hallmark on the clasp or the jump ring. For rings, it's on the inside of the band. For earrings, it's on the post or the hook part. On some very delicate pieces, the hallmark can be so small that it's barely visible to the naked eye – a magnifying glass helps.
If a retailer says the hallmark is "too small" or "not required for this size" or "has gone missing" – don't buy it. These are not excuses that are necessary for genuine goods. Real gold jewelry has a hallmark.
The Weight Test: What Gold Reveals
Gold is unusually heavy. The density of pure gold is 19.3 grams per cubic centimeter – that's more than twice as heavy as steel. Even 585 gold, with its alloy metals, is significantly heavier than brass or copper.
A practical test: If a chain is visually large and impressive but feels surprisingly light in your hand, that's a warning sign. Either it's hollow – which is legitimate but should be stated – or it's not a genuine precious metal. Real gold jewelry has a characteristic weight.
What Applies Specifically to Online Purchases
Buying online has an advantage that many don't utilize: A reputable online jeweler has to be more transparent than a brick-and-mortar one. They can't let you hold the piece, or stage it with lighting. So they have to state: fineness, weight in grams, metal alloy, stone quality if applicable.
If this information is missing, that's a clear sign. A retailer selling real gold has no reason to conceal the fineness. A retailer who conceals it does so because the fineness is not a selling point – because it's not present.
Checklist for online purchases: Fineness hallmark stated, weight in grams stated, complete imprint with a real address, at least a 14-day return policy, genuine customer reviews with photos, secure payment methods (PayPal, credit card).
What You Can Do If You're Unsure
Any jeweler can check the authenticity of jewelry. A quick visual inspection and, if necessary, an acid test or an X-ray fluorescence device (which larger jewelers have) will provide certainty within minutes. This usually costs nothing or a small fee.
If you've bought online and are unsure: Take the piece to a local jeweler before the return period expires. A thirty-day return policy is worthless if you don't use it.
At Corelune, the transparency I describe here is standard: fineness hallmark on every piece, weight in grams for every necklace, complete imprint, 30-day return policy. Not because I have to write it – but because I know that's what I wanted as a buyer before I started selling jewelry myself.
